Frequently Asked Questions

Spray foam polyurethane is a type of insulation material that is applied as a liquid and expands into a foam upon application. It consists of two main components: a resin and a hardener. When these components are mixed and sprayed, they react chemically to form a foam that hardens into a solid.

Spray foam polyurethane is known for its excellent insulating properties, creating an airtight and moisture-resistant barrier that helps to improve energy efficiency, reduce heating and cooling costs, and enhance comfort. It comes in two main types: open-cell and closed-cell, each offering different benefits in terms of insulation and moisture resistance.

Yes, while the upfront cost of spray polyurethane foam insulation is higher than fiberglass or blown-in cellulose, it offers long-term savings. Unlike other insulation types, spray foam doesn’t degrade over time, reducing the need for replacement. You may also be able to downsize your heating and cooling equipment, leading to further savings.

Homes insulated with spray foam can use up to 40% less energy than those with conventional insulation, though your actual savings will depend on factors like your lifestyle, appliances, and the number and size of windows in your home.

The main difference between closed-cell and open-cell polyurethane spray foam is their structure and density.

Closed-cell foam is denser, creating a stronger, more rigid barrier that also acts as a vapor barrier, providing better insulation and moisture resistance.

Open-cell foam is lighter and more flexible, allowing it to expand more, making it great for filling larger spaces, but it doesn't provide as much insulation or moisture protection as closed-cell foam.

If you're sealing the entire building, we always recommend fresh air ventilation. Most experts suggest sealing the structure tightly and using an air exchanger connected to your HVAC system for proper ventilation. In winter, the air exchanger brings in fresh cold air and transfers heat from the stale air being expelled, maintaining energy efficiency. The reverse happens in summer, keeping the air fresh and energy use low. This way, you can have a highly energy-efficient home with controlled ventilation.

If you're retrofitting just parts of your home, like the attic or basement, you likely won't seal the house too tightly since air still enters through doors, windows, and other areas.

When building a new home, it's important to insulate thoroughly, as you only get one chance. If you over-insulate, it can easily be fixed with a low-cost ventilation system. However, if you under-insulate, you may regret it.

This is a spray foam FAQ we get a lot! R-value is a measure of the effectiveness of insulation. It represents the ability of the insulation to resist heat flow, and the higher the R-value, the better the insulation is at preventing heat loss. R-value is typically expressed in units of thermal resistance per square inch, and the R-value of different types of insulation can vary significantly.

The R-value of different insulating materials must be based on test methods established by the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). Several factors can impact the R-value of insulation, including the type of insulation material, its thickness, and its density.

When selecting insulation for your home or building, it is important to consider the R-value of the material. The R-value required for a particular application will depend on the climate, the type of structure, and the desired level of energy efficiency. For example, a home in a cold environment typically requires a higher R-value than a home in a mild climate.

The R-value myth is the misconception that higher R-value insulation will always keep your home warmer in winter and cooler in summer. In reality, R-values are measured in perfect, windless, and dry conditions—far from real-life situations. Insulation like fiberglass may only achieve its rated R-value under ideal conditions.

However, factors like air leaks, moisture, and air movement through the insulation can drastically reduce its effectiveness. Spray foam insulation, which creates an air and vapor barrier, provides better insulation because it stops air and moisture from moving through the building.

The "stack effect" occurs when warm air in a house rises and escapes through the upper levels, such as recessed lighting or fan fixtures. This happens year-round, as warm air is lighter than cold air.

Since homes can’t create a vacuum, the escaping air must be replaced by new air, which enters through lower areas like floors above the crawl space, around windows, vents, and other gaps in the home’s insulation. This continuous movement of air can make a home drafty and less energy efficient.

No, when spray polyurethane foam insulation is applied to the underside of the roof deck, venting the attic is no longer necessary.

Traditional attic venting was designed to prevent condensation buildup on insulation caused by temperature differences between the attic and the interior of the building.

However, venting also lets in cold air during winter and warm air in summer. Spray foam insulation creates a thermal and moisture barrier, allowing the attic to become semi-conditioned—typically within 10-15 degrees of the home's interior—preventing dew point conditions and condensation.

Closed-cell spray foam insulation is a high-performance insulation material made up of tightly packed cells that are completely sealed and filled with a gas that helps the foam expand and harden. This structure makes it denser and more rigid than open-cell foam, creating an exceptional air, moisture, and vapor barrier.

At Foam All Spray Insulation, we use closed-cell insulation because it delivers superior energy efficiency, structural strength, and moisture resistance. It helps prevent air leaks, reduces energy costs, and adds extra rigidity to walls and roofs. Closed-cell foam is also ideal for use in areas where moisture control is essential—such as basements, crawl spaces, and exterior walls—making it a durable, long-lasting solution for both residential and commercial projects.

Concrete lifting and leveling with polyurethane involves using a special foam to raise sunken or uneven concrete surfaces. Here’s how it works:

• Drilling: Small holes are drilled into the sunken concrete slab.
• Injection: A two-part polyurethane foam is injected through these holes. The foam expands underneath the slab, filling gaps and lifting the concrete back to its original position.
• Curing: The foam hardens quickly, usually within minutes, allowing the surface to be used almost immediately.

The benefits of using polyurethane foam include its lightweight nature, which reduces stress on the soil and minimizes future settling. It also cures rapidly, reducing disruption. Additionally, polyurethane is water-resistant and durable, making it suitable for outdoor use and various weather conditions.

Concrete lifting - also known as slab jacking or concrete leveling - is a process used to raise and level sunken or uneven concrete surfaces. The method typically involves the following steps:

1. Assessment: The first step in concrete lifting is to assess the extent of the settlement and identify the areas that require repair. This involves examining the concrete surface for signs of sinking, cracking, or unevenness.
2. Preparation: Once the affected areas have been identified, the concrete surface is prepared for lifting. This may involve clearing debris, drilling small holes into the concrete, and ensuring proper access for the lifting equipment.
3. Injection: With the preparation complete, a specialized material, such as polyurethane foam or a cementitious slurry, is injected beneath the sunken concrete slab. The material is injected through the drilled holes, where it expands to fill voids and lift the concrete to its original position.
4. Lifting: As the injected material expands, it exerts pressure on the underside of the concrete slab, gradually raising it to the desired level. The lifting process is carefully monitored to ensure precise control over the elevation of the concrete surface.
5. Stabilization: Once the concrete has been lifted to the correct height, the injection process is stopped, and the material is allowed to cure. This stabilizes the lifted concrete slab and ensures a durable and long-lasting repair.
6. Finishing: After the lifting and stabilization process is complete, any excess material is trimmed, and the drilled holes are filled with a matching concrete patch. The surface is then smoothed and leveled to provide a seamless finish.

Concrete lifting with foam and mudjacking are both used to raise sunken concrete, but they use different materials and methods:

• Concrete Lifting with Foam: This method uses polyurethane foam, which is injected through small holes drilled into the concrete. The foam expands and hardens beneath the slab, lifting it to its original position. Foam lifting is quick, minimally invasive, and cures rapidly, often within minutes. It is also lightweight, reducing the risk of future settling.
• Mudjacking: This traditional method involves pumping a mixture of cement, sand, and water (called grout) beneath the concrete slab through larger holes. The grout fills voids and raises the slab. Mudjacking can be slower, more invasive, and may require larger holes. It also tends to be heavier, which can sometimes lead to further settling over time.